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Banarasi Silk Types Explained: Katan, Mashru, Kora, Georgette and Tanchoi
- Harsh Vidyarthi
- Aug 28
- 3 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
"Banarasi silk" is not one fabric. It is a city's worth of different weaves sold under a single name — and that is exactly why so many first-time buyers end up with something they did not expect.
Katan, Mashru, Kora organza, Georgette, Tanchoi. Each one behaves differently on the body, holds zari differently, and belongs to a different occasion. Here is how to tell them apart in thirty seconds of touching the fabric.
Quick comparison
Weave | Feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|
Katan | Crisp, firm, holds shape | Weddings, heavy zari work |
Mashru | Silk face, cotton back, soft glow | Long events, comfort with sheen |
Kora / Organza | Sheer, papery, transparent | Cocktail, reception, layering |
Georgette | Fluid, crinkled, falls flat | Modern drapes, travel |
Tanchoi | Dense, satin-like, no float threads | Formal, minimal-zari looks |
1. Katan — the classic bridal base
Katan is pure silk with tightly twisted filaments in both warp and weft. That twist is what makes it firm. A Katan Banarasi holds a pleat sharply and can carry heavy kadhua or jangla zari without sagging.
How to spot it: hold it up and it stands slightly away from your hand instead of collapsing. It also makes a faint dry rustle.
See it here: Banarasi Mashru Katan Silk – MTH1970 — ₹15,996
2. Mashru — silk on top, cotton against the skin
Mashru is a satin-weave structure where silk warp floats over the surface and cotton sits on the reverse. You get the sheen of silk and the breathability of cotton, which is the entire reason it was invented.
If you are on your feet for eight hours at a wedding, this is the weave that will not punish you. We went deep on its history and structure in What is Mashru Silk? The Banarasi Weave Explained.
See it here: Banarasi Mashru Katan Silk – MTH1969 — ₹15,996
3. Kora and organza — the see-through ones
Kora is silk woven in its raw, ungummed state, which gives it a stiff, papery transparency. Organza is finer and even more sheer. Both photograph beautifully and both are the wrong choice for a cold December outdoor wedding.
Layer over a contrasting petticoat for depth.
Avoid tight pleating — sheer fabrics show every uneven fold.
Steam, never iron directly.
4. Georgette — the one that actually drapes
Georgette Banarasi uses highly twisted yarn that creates a crinkled surface and a fluid fall. If Katan stands away from your body, georgette clings to it. This is the weave for anyone who finds traditional Banarasi too structured, and it is by far the easiest to pack for travel.
5. Tanchoi — zari without the loose threads
Tanchoi is woven so that the extra weft threads are carried within the fabric instead of floating on the back. Turn a Tanchoi over and the reverse is almost as clean as the front. It gives a dense, satin-like surface with subtle self-toned patterning rather than loud gold.
See it here: Banarasi Mashru Katan Silk – MTH1968 — ₹15,996
How to choose in one line
Wedding, heavy zari, want drama: Katan.
All-day event, want comfort: Mashru.
Reception, want to be photographed: Kora or organza.
Want it to fall like a gown: Georgette.
Formal but understated: Tanchoi.
For the longer story of how Banaras became the centre of all this, see History of Banarasi Silk in India. And before you buy anything described as pure silk, check the tag — the Handloom Mark and Silk Mark tell you what the seller may not.
See it here: Banarasi Mashru Katan Silk – MTH1967 — ₹15,996
Frequently asked
What is the difference between Katan and Mashru Banarasi?
Katan is pure silk in both warp and weft, so it is crisp and firm. Mashru is a satin weave with silk on the face and cotton on the reverse, so it is softer, more breathable and sits closer to the body.
Which Banarasi silk is best for a bride?
Katan, in most cases. It carries heavy kadhua and jangla zari without losing shape, and it holds pleats through a long ceremony.
Is Banarasi georgette real silk?
Yes — georgette here refers to the twist and weave structure, not a synthetic fibre. Banarasi georgette is woven from silk yarn with high twist, which is what creates the crinkled fall.
Can Banarasi sarees be worn in summer?
Mashru and lightweight organza work well in warm weather. Heavy Katan with dense zari is uncomfortable in Indian summer heat.
How do I check if a Banarasi saree is handwoven?
Turn it over. Handwoven Banarasi shows floating weft threads on the reverse and tiny irregularities in the motif repeat. Powerloom pieces have a machine-perfect back and identical repeats.
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